ခရိုနီ ျဖစ္လာေသာ လူငယ္တစ္ဦးႏွင့္ ေတြ႔ဆံုျခင္း (wall street journal)
the wall street Journal ပါ ေဆာင္းပါးတစ္ပုဒ္ပါ။မိုက္ကယ္ မီုးျမင့္ရဲ့ သားတစ္ေယာက္အေၾကာင္းကိုလည္း ေရးထားတာပါ။
Ivan Pun in front of TS1 in Yangon, Myanmar
Photo by Kaung Htet for WSJ.Money
YANGON, Myanmar—On this balmy
Saturday evening at Yangon's Wardan jetty, dock workers have momentarily
stopped loading and unloading crates from rickety fishing boats.
Vegetable sellers that line the dusty road by the Yangon River are
sitting quiet, and trishaw drivers, too, have stopped shouting out at
passersby to offer them rides.
Instead,
they are watching amused—and confused—as socialites from Hong Kong,
London and beyond hike up their flowing skirts and gingerly tread on the
dirt track, careful that their heeled shoes stay clear of potholes and
muddy patches. Avoiding the oversize rats burrowing through garbage
nearby, this sampling of the world's beautiful people is heading to
Transit Shed 1, a rusting industrial warehouse whose corrugated iron
roof and green exterior blends in seamlessly with the ramshackle jetty
that surrounds it.
Yet the scene inside
Transit Shed 1—or TS1, as its creators prefer it be called—is a world
away from the rest of Myanmar, the poorest country in Asia after
Afghanistan and Nepal. Contemporary art work featuring children with
Burmese mythical dragons lines one wall, while a Who's Who of Myanmar
society—everyone from former political prisoners to ambassadors—sip
champagne with a host of young, wealthy, globe-trotting compatriots.
It
is opening night at the venue, part exhibition space and part retail
venture. The brainchild of
Ivan Pun,
the 29-year-old Oxford-educated youngest son of one of Myanmar's
richest tycoons, TS1 hopes to inject a new hip glamour to this decaying
city that has undergone a celebrated political and economic transition
in recent years after almost six decades of military rule.
And
with hip, comes some eye-opening price tags. In an adjoining room, a
bench made of teak from Myanmar's Shan state sells for $2,500. Blouses
and other gifts carry labels for TS1's signature brand, MyanmarMade.
Coming soon: The retail space will host a high-fashion showcase
including designers like Proenza Schouler, purveyor of thousand-dollar
satchels, and Prabal Gurung, the Nepalese-American fashion designer
whose designs have been worn by the likes of
Michelle Obama
and
Kate Middleton.
"We want to see if Myanmar is
ready for something like this," Pun said later after the event, dressed
in a black T-shirt and skinny jeans. "There is a thirst in consuming and
buying that is not being satisfied."
Pun's
vision is just the beginning of a new Myanmar, featuring glam and glitz
that is funded, spearheaded and enjoyed by repatriates that escaped the
country during its days under brutal military control. That
dictatorship ended in 2011, when a new, nominally civilian government
assumed power, and since then its leaders have loosened restrictions on
public gatherings and opened the doors to foreign investment, leading
Western governments to lift most economic sanctions. Now that Myanmar is
embracing Western-style consumerism for the first time in more than a
generation, Pun and his compatriots are playing tastemakers.
It
doesn't seem to deter them that the country's gross domestic product
per capita works out to only $1,700 a year, compared with $62,400 in
Singapore or $52,800 in the U.S., according to the CIA World Factbook.
Just behind the TS1 retail space, children prowl through garbage looking
for toys to play with.
People in
Myanmar "have not yet developed taste as consumers," Pun says. It's like
starting from scratch, he says. "Some markets are set in their
preferences—like India and Indonesia—but here we can curate our
offerings and bring designers that are interesting to fashion editors in
London, New York and Paris rather than what is commercially available."
“ This vision is just the beginning of a new Myanmar, featuring glam and glitz that is funded and enjoyed by repatriates that escaped the country. ”
CUT OFF FROM the
outside world for so long, tropical Myanmar is following a trail blazed
earlier by countries such as Russia, Vietnam and China that unlocked new
wealth when they embraced elements of capitalism after decades of
isolation. Their openings spawned scores of first-generation
millionaires and billionaires—some through legitimate businesses, others
through corrupt or illegal means—and experts expect Myanmar to be no
different.
The country's economic
reforms are creating big new opportunities as authorities issue licenses
for everything from banking to oil-and-gas exploration to mobile-phone
networks. Wealth-X, a consultancy that specializes in tracking the rich,
says there are currently only about 40 individuals considered
ultra-high-net worth in Myanmar, with investible assets over $30
million. But it says this number could grow by more than seven times in
the next decade—the fastest such pace of growth anywhere in the world,
the consultancy says.
Signs of a New
Money boom are already appearing. After prohibiting imports of foreign
vehicles for years except for top generals, the government has eased
restrictions, and now showrooms boast black Rolls Royce sedans and
Jaguar sports cars. Residents see Ferraris, Bentleys, Porsches and even a
Bugatti Veyron—the fastest street-legal car make in the world—alongside
rusty taxis that would look more appropriate on a scrapheap.
Prices
for prime real estate in Yangon, Myanmar's commercial capital, are
skyrocketing. A modest two-story, four-bedroom house in the exclusive
Golden Valley neighborhood rents for as much as $10,000 a month,
real-estate agents say. Families with older colonial-era bungalows are
tearing them down and replacing them with colonnaded mansions, while
their 20-something kids gather in nightclubs ordering Johnnie Walker
blue label whisky.
Myanmar also is
popping up on the radar screens of private wealth managers and
luxury-goods brands hungry for a new source of growth at a time when
China is slowing down. Myanmar residents spent only about $1.9 million
on wine last year, according to consumer-market research firm
Euromonitor International, but sales are expected to more than double by
2018. After that, the sky's the limit. Myanmar is "the last economic
frontier in Asia with significant growth potential," Euromonitor says.
"Even
I did not realize how much wealth there was here," says the young Pun,
whose father, a property and banking entrepreneur named Serge Pun, has
seen his estimated net worth swell by $100 million to $600 million over
the past year, according to Forbes magazine. "When you look at mass
gatherings, weddings especially, and see the lines of Ferraris and BMWs
outside—people are not shy to show off."
A
big question is whether Myanmar can absorb this new wealth without
seeding the kind of class tensions that at times have threatened to
destabilize other emerging markets, including some of those—like Russia
and China—that eschewed displays of wealth in earlier times. Just a few
years ago, Myanmar's leaders frowned upon conspicuous consumption, and
the few families that held significant financial assets mostly tended to
squirrel them away in overseas bank accounts rather than flaunt them at
home.
“ A big question is whether Myanmar can absorb this new wealth without seeding class tensions. ”
Now, locals say benefits from the
country's opening are accruing often to elites with ties to the former
military junta. Some Myanmar business leaders are still targeted by
Western economic sanctions because of alleged ties to drug trafficking,
corrupt government contracts or wasteful extraction of natural
resources.
"All the black money that
people were hiding is now coming out," says Cheery Zahau, a democracy
activist from Myanmar's Chin state whose work with the United Nations
has been recognized by the George W. Bush Institute. For the rich, Zahau
argues, it is a competition—one buys a Ferrari, and the other buys a
Bentley, one builds a five-story mansion, and the next family, a
six-story mansion. "It is sick. We don't need the World Bank or the IMF,
we need these people—these very, very rich people—to spend money in a
way that is not ignorant."
The country's
newly-rich say the picture is a little more complicated. After all,
they say, can people be blamed for wanting to splurge a little after so
many years of privation?
Carl Moe Myint trains his sailing team at his father's sailing club in Yangon, Myanmar
Photo by Kaung Htet for WSJ.Money
IT'S A BREEZY DAY
in the midst of Myanmar's relentless monsoon season, and 29-year-old
Carl Moe Myint is relaxing at the Yangon Sailing Club in a crisp blue
shirt and black pants, his skin tanned from years on the waters off
South Africa, Singapore and Thailand.
Founded
in 1924 during the era of British colonial rule, the Sailing Club on a
picturesque lake in the center of Yangon was ravaged during World War
II, and again by a cyclone in 2008. More recently, its clubhouse,
restaurant, bar and boat sheds have all been painstakingly restored,
complete with wooden boards displaying names of past commodores—largely
with funding from Moe Myint's family. The club now serves as a refuge
for Myanmar's growing number of rich elites and expatriates—its
membership increased by 30 % in the past year—who enjoy relaxing
surrounded by perfectly-clipped lawns.
Moe
Myint's father, Michael Moe Myint, is a wealthy rare-book collector and
sailing aficionado who also helms MPRL E&P Pte Ltd. Co., the
largest privately owned oil and gas-services company in Myanmar. When 20
coveted tenders for offshore exploration were given out to foreign
companies earlier this year, the elder Moe Myint's firm was a partner
for four. (He and his company aren't targeted by Western sanctions,
which prohibit business dealings with some individuals over links to the
former military government.) The younger Moe Myint is focusing on other
passions, he says.
"As long as our
family is here, sailing will be here," Carl Moe Myint says as boats
glide by in the background. Having returned from the Colorado School of
Mines in 2008, where he majored in economics, Moe Myint now is working
on an even bigger project than restoring Yangon's historic Sailing Club:
helping turn Ngwe Saung, a coastal town four hours away by car, into an
international sailing playground.
Central
to the plan: the $17 million Ngwe Saung Yacht Club, a resort and
yachting center his family launched last year at the far end of Ngwe
Saung's nine-mile stretch of pristine sand. Built entirely with family
money, it features an infinity pool overlooking the ocean, villa suites
with verandas and a nightclub—all in an area where many residents still
live in dilapidated wooden homes and only get electricity a few hours a
day.
"Money was not the issue, we did
this for the sport of sailing, and to make sure that with our revenue,
the sport can survive here," he says in a flawless American accent.
Carl
Moe Myint says he would like to develop the yacht club into a major
marina in the next decade, with sailing enthusiasts from Myanmar and
beyond parking their boats there.
"Because
of reforms," he says, "there is a lot of wealth splashing around." The
shame of it, he says, is that too few of Myanmar's rich want to spend
money on developing their passions, and would rather spend it
frivolously in nightclubs. Investments in public amenities like art
galleries or public parks, much less major philanthropic initiatives,
remain scant.
Other well-off residents
concur. Patrick Robert, a 67-year-old French architect who has lived in
Yangon for more than 20 years, says he has been frustrated by how little
local elites seem to care about spending their money well. A former
museum curator, he now designs homes, hotels and restaurants for wealthy
clients around the world and works on preservation projects.
He
is helping restore several of Yangon's decaying, mildewed colonial
structures from the early 1900s. But, sitting in his Golden Valley
bungalow surrounded by servants in exquisite uniforms of tight-fitted
cap-sleeved shirts and Myanmar longyi sarongs, mixing glasses of
Hendrick's gin and tonic, he says the demand for his designs is largely
coming from expatriates and Western businessmen who want a Yangon base
for new business ventures—not Myanmar's local gentry.
In
April, Robert says, he helped organize a trip for a wealthy Myanmar man
and his wife and two children to Europe—a man, he says, who was
recently removed from Europe's sanctions list but is still blackballed
by the U.S. Since it was the man's first trip to Europe, he wanted
Robert to connect him to all the splendors the continent had to offer.
Robert
arranged a private viewing at the Louvre in Paris during early morning
hours when it is free of tourists, he says. But this businessman was not
interested.
"One week in London, Rome
and Paris and everything was buy, buy, buy. Chanel this and Louis
Vuitton that, just buy buy buy," he says. The Myanmar millionaire, he
says, was most grateful that Robert helped him procure a Hermès Birkin
bag for his wife in a single day, rather than the usual wait of anywhere
between three weeks to several years for an accessory that costs as
much as $80,000.
"This class of new wealthy, they are giving me a lot of problems," he says.
“ Too few of Myanmar's rich want to spend money on developing their passions, and would rather spend it frivolously in nightclubs. ”
IN DOWNTOWN YANGON,
Ivan Pun leans back in a brown leather swivel chair at the Pun+Projects
office, the firm he founded to work on what he calls "luxury retail
concepts," starting with Transit Shed 1.
A
pencil holder is filled with a dozen perfectly sharpened black pencils.
Copies of stylish magazines like Monocle and Apartamento lie perfectly
arranged on his desk. From his corner office on the eighth floor of the
11-story FMI Center—one of Yangon's only tall office buildings, built by
his father to house the head offices of the Serge Pun & Associates
Group—the younger Pun overlooks the streets of downtown Yangon, its
tattered buildings drenched with rain and the golden Sule Pagoda
sparkling in the distance. (Like Moe Myint, Pun's family is not targeted
by Western sanctions).
On this Monday,
he is chairing a meeting on TS1, discussing every aspect of the project
from sales of art to upcoming exhibitions and the logistics of a
restaurant—called Port Autonomy—in the shed just a few doors down from
the TS1 space. Scheduled to open soon, the shed is facing a problem
familiar in Myanmar: how to get electricity in to power the restaurant.
The discussion then veers to how to keep flies out of TS1, a constant
struggle since garbage litters the jetty.
He
is interrupted three times in 10 minutes by his constantly ringing
phone, and at one point in the meeting, he juggles two calls at once—one
with the director of TS1's art exhibitions in Beijing, and another
personal call on his cellphone. His staff—all in their late 20s and
early 30s—clamor for his attention, as Pun signs off on every detail at
TS1, from staff uniforms to how much of a discount to give on art as
exhibitions come to an end.
Things are
especially hectic on this day, Pun says, because he is just about to
embark on a three-week trip to Hong Kong, Tokyo, New York and finally Brazil for the World Cup.
In the U.S., he says, he will have the opportunity to check in on a
pop-up shop in the East Hamptons, where products from his MyanmarMade
brand are being sold all summer.
Pun
says he has "a certain level of taste" from his time around the world
that allows him to bring a variety of concepts to Myanmar. Growing up
almost entirely in England, he was educated at the Cranleigh School, a
boarding school in the county of Surrey, until he was 18. After making
his way into Oxford University to major in Oriental studies, he dropped
out in 2007—the major "didn't quite interest" him, he says—to pursue
fashion and music. This brought him to Condé Nast in midtown Manhattan,
where he worked on special editorial projects at Vogue magazine and
another, now-defunct publication run by
Anna Wintour.
He returned to Asia in 2009,
working for a while in Beijing on a menswear line with some friends.
Eventually he was lured back to his homeland of Myanmar in 2011, working
for his father's conglomerate, which also has interests in
manufacturing, retail and virtually every other major sector in the
country. His last gig was in corporate development, before he broke off
to set up Pun+Projects.
Last year, he
hosted a private screening of the "Great Gatsby" in Yangon attended by
his friend, Baz Luhrmann, the movie's director. Next, he says, he might
consider inviting
Wes Anderson
for a similar private screening of his latest movie, "Grand
Budapest Hotel," or organize a larger film festival.
When
W Magazine staffers made a trip to the country last year to produce a
20-photo spread by photographer
Tim Walker,
Pun was, of course, in the loop. The series, titled "Gilt Trip,"
featured model
Edie Campbell
wearing Lanvin-label clothes near the sacred Golden Rock, a
Buddhist pilgrimage site south of Yangon, and jumping with Kayan tribal
"long-neck" women with brass rings around their necks.
Later in the day, Pun rides in a large white
Toyota
7203.TO +0.16%
minivan to TS1, replying to emails on his phone in the back
seat—an impressive feat considering that Myanmar's primitive telecom
system doesn't support such services in most places. It's OK, though,
because the van is kitted out with its own Wi-Fi.
At
TS1, he inspects products from its new retail offering, including
furniture from the avant-garde, Chinois-style luxury brand Lala Curio, a
Hong Kong-based interior designer. He sits on a $3,600 couch and picks
up a decorative item of peacock feathers stuck on a wooden block,
checking its retail price. It is $65.
His
hope, he says, is that he helps create an environment that "isn't just
for Yangon, but is about what we believe is cool, and are bringing here
to Yangon." And it certainly doesn't feel out of place in such a
rough-hewn country, he says.
"It is not
too early to start thinking about this" in Myanmar, he says, leaning
back in his chair. "Wages are increasing, wealth is increasing—we don't
know how long this is going to take, but it will happen.
Write to Shibani Mahtani at shibani.mahtani@wsj.com
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